Kilkenny, Ireland

This beautiful medieval city may be my favorite place in Ireland. On my first visit 10 years ago, I fell in love with the narrow winding streets, the river valleys and Kilkenny Castle. On my most recent visit a few months ago, I spent time walking the quiet streets, exploring the churchyards and drinking and dining at local restaurants. I seriously wondered how I could relocate my family to live there for a few months a year. Alas, family commitments keep me in Chicago, but it's Kilkenny that I dream of.
Kilkenny is a popular weekend destination for Dubliners who want to escape the big city for a small village with a thriving social scene. The nightlife in Kilkenny is well known and well deserved. The winding streets are lined with pubs featuring nightly music and entertainment. If you are not interested in visiting Kilkenny for the night life, then come for the food. Surprisingly, my favorite Italian restaurant (probably until I visit Italy in 2007), is located in Kilkenny. Ristorante Rinuccini is located across the street from the Castle at 1 The Parade. This excellent restaurant is on the first floor of a charming townhome and proprietors Antonio and Marion Cavaliere also rent luxury rooms above the restaurant. The service is top notch and personal and the food was unforgettable.
When in Kilkenny, a visit to Kilkenny Castle is a must. The castle is operated by the OPW (Office of Public Works) and tickets for castle tours must be bought the day of the tour. Weekends sell out quickly, mostly by tour bus visitors, but if you arrive before the castle office opens, you can queue up for tickets. The castle is beautifully restored and the 45 minute tour is a glimpse inside a past time. While waiting for your appointed tour time, explore the castle grounds which are immense and give an excellent view of the castle and the river is sits upon. When inside, you'll see the Long Gallery, an amazing vaulted room covered from floor to ceiling in portraits and tapestries. On a cozier scale is the Library and Drawing Room, beautifully restored with gold fabric walls, red brocade drapes and sitting areas centered around large windows, fireplaces and bookshelves. The neatest feature...the fabric wall coverings cover horse hair stuffed walls which insulated the rooms but also created a major fire hazard.
Shopping in Kilkenny is excellent and half the fun is stumbling upon shops as you walk the curvy lanes. Both my husband and I bought coats here and a few trinkets for our home. After a day of shopping, the fun of Kilkenny is the nightlife. My favorite place is the infamous Kyteler's Inn, a rustic and charming historic pub with a shocking history and a resident ghost. The best Irish music we heard on our trip was in this pub. And a must for dinner or a drink is Langton House, an unbelievable place which accommodates a hotel and 2 bars with gorgeous private courtyards and a ballroom, all secretly located behind an unassuming brick storefront. Absolutely one of the most amazing locations for a destination wedding I can think of.
Accommodations are varied and most are within walking distance of the center of town. We stayed at the Kilkenny River Court hotel, located across the River Nore from Kilkenny Castle. The rooms were cheaply decorated, but the inner private courtyard parking and views of the Castle made this hotel a nice 1 night stay.