Friday, November 17, 2006

New Orleans

Okay, I have to write it, even though it might not be nice. In my opinion, New Orlean's has lost its magic. I flew in recently for a weekend visit and left thinking it would be awhile before I returned.
I have always loved the Crescent City. I visited the first time as a child, and many times in the 90's at the height of the Gothic renaissance when you truly believed vampires walked the alleys. But alas, those times are gone, rather tragic.
What I love about NO: the food, the history and the shabby chic faded glamour that makes you believe that nothing ever really dies or is forgotten, but that everything is still there behind a thin veil. Now NO to me is just trying too hard to build back up, to replenish it's lost souls and fill the Boubon Street traps with tourists and conventioners. Even my favorite bar, the charming and scary Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop has been redone and lost it's old world charm.
One place that has survived the Hurricane and the rebuilding is Fritzel's, the BEST place for jazz in NO. Located far down Bourbon Street, this place is special and the music and the jazz lovers make this place magic. Another favorite is The Bombay Club, absolutely my favorite place to hang out in NO. The martini's, the music, the calamari, the oysters. I usually start and end each evening at this beautiful club. Also not to be missed, ACME, for the oysters. Yes, it's crowded and full of tourists, but the oysters are ice cold, the service is great, the beer is fast to arrive and the hush puppies are the best anywhere.
Other honorable mentions, Petunia's on St. Louis has the best breakfast in NO. And Bayona on Rue Dauphine is the only place for a romantic dinner. Situated in a 200 year old Creole cottage, the atmosphere, the service and the food is absolutely fantastic.
Also, don't miss hearing Steamboat Willie play in the French Quarter. New Orleans famous jazz musician is a great friend who plays nightly at various bars and outdoor venues in NO. After the hurricane, my husband and I flew Willie to Chicago to attend a benefit concert and to play at our wedding. His shows are not to be missed. Music is truly the heart of New Orleans.

Thursday, November 02, 2006

Dublin

So here are my thoughts on Dublin. It is a city for the young. I enjoyed visiting Dublin much more in my 20's than I did in my mid 30's. I do think that my most recent visit to Dublin (October 2006), will be my last.
The city is charming and a must see if in Ireland for the first time, but I found my most recent visit too similar to other stops in a major metropolis. A highlight to be sure (at least for this traveled librarian), is Trinity College and the Long Room in the main chamber of the Old Library. The most spectacular library I have ever seen. This part of the library is included on your tour to see The Book of Kells. On my first trip to Ireland almost a decade ago, I truly enjoyed seeing the pages of The Book. However, in the time since my last visit, the "exhibit" is more like a Disney attraction, with a long line through the bookstore (for maximum sales effect), and a large room full of larger than life panels on the history of The Book. Fascinating to be sure, but not as magical as seeing it before it became the tourist trap it is now. However, it is worth the visit just for the access to the Long Room at the end of the tour.
Other highlights in Dublin, the churches. They are breathtaking especially my favorite, St. Patrick's Cathedral. Fascinating place and the resting place of the author of Gulliver's Travels, Jonathan Swift, he is buried next to his beloved Esther.Well worth a stop if you are on the tour buses or a short walk from Dame Street.
Don't miss fish and chips at Leo Burdock's on Werburgh Street, no longer served wrapped in newspaper, but still the best. And for a wonderful meal with the best service in Dublin, eat at Thornton's in the Fitzwilliam Hotel across from St. Stephan's Green. This is a dining experience not to be missed.